Day 122 to 130

1 to 9 December

Cape Arid National Park, the Nullarbor, Streaky Bay and the Gawler Ranges.

 

We had three nights in Cape Arid National Park which is situated some 90 Klms east of Esperance. This park is truely spectacular. On one side are massive wheat farms with 10,000 hectare plus paddocks and  on the other the sea. We arrived in the early afternoon to find that they were doing major pruning in the camp ground and we would not be able to set up camp to late afternoon. The volunteer camp hosts are people we first met in Perth, and again at our stay at Wellington National Park. They assured us that we would be able to set up that night so we adjourned to a place down near the beach for a relaxing afternoon of doing nothing, and writing the previous blog. At about five we were informed that we could go to the camp ground and choose a spot from one of the five that they had made ready. The camp spots are very private and once set up you are in a world of your own. Facilities include long drop toilets and two camp kitchens. The one near our camp had spectacular views down to the beach and ocean. Next morning we were up early and explored several beaches nearby. The colour of the water here is a light to dark turquoise and set against the whiter than white sand dunes, the scenes are amazing. So is the low Heath scrub, dotted throughout with tiny wild flowers. It is spectacular. 

 

In the afternoon we ventured further out to an old settlement ruin some 40 to 50 Klms away 

 With some of the tracks being deep sand. The old ruins are now overgrown, but a daughter of the original settler had painted many scenes of the area when she lived there in the early 1900’s so you get a real sense of what it was like. Totally isolated now, so you can imagine what it was like then. The next day we did some further exploring closer to our camp, and took it a little bit easier as the previous day had been quite long and exhausting.

 

Our last morning at Cape Arid saw us up early, packed up, said our good byes to the camp hosted and set off to start our trip across the Nullarbor. We decided to take a track up to the highway to save driving all the way back to Esperance and then up to Norseman as we thought it would be quicker. Well we were wrong. The first part of the trip was Tarred road which then went to gravel but quickly turned to find the track through the trees. My first warning that this was a track seldom travelled, let alone maintained was when I noticed mature bushes growing in the pot holes. The further we went the worse it became till we were crawling along at 5klms an hour, being shaken to bits as we were in and our of large dried out bogs. Some had been filled with rock just to make it harder.. it was the worst road we have been on for this trip and made the worst of the Gibb River Road look like a pleasant Sunday drive. We got to the highway finally at 12.30pm. It had taken us about five hours to travel the 200 kilometres, where half was tar when we were doing 90 Klms an hour. That works out that we took 4 hours to travel about 80klms as well as using a lot a diesel. Oh well another talking point.

 

We arrived at the Balladonia Road House and filled up at $2.10 per litre and then set off to our next stop at Cocklebiddy . Driving across theGreat Australian Bight is not full of things to talk about except that we stopped and camped over night at Cocklebiddy and Nullarbor. We did stop at a couple of lookouts on the way to break the monotony of the trip, and the sights of the limestone cliffs are spectacular. But other than that there is not much to write home about. The main talking point is when you cross into South Australia you have to turn your clock forward bu 2 1/2 hours. It was interesting when we got up at Nullarbor at 9.30am, which was 7am WA time, the only people in the caravan park were people who had come for WA. The huge time adjustment really throws out your body clock and 4 days later we are still adjusting. 

 

Our last stop across the Bight was at a small town called Penong. The caravan park here is delightfull and it was only a short walk up town to the pub where the beer was delicious and cold. Between the caravan park and the town is the results of a town project where they have a wind mill museum. They have restored and constructed some 20 windmills. The largest is one made by comet who had made the largest windmill in Australia. The townsfolk found one out in the bush brought the remains back to town, restored it to working order and rebuilt it. There were only 15 of these windmills ever made and this one is the centrepiece of the display. A photo of it heads up this blog. From Penong we took the road to Streaky Bay where we checked into a caravan park out of town. It is new and has the best facilities of any caravan park I have ever seen. The ablution block has 8 seperate private shower rooms that includes toilet, shower and full vanity. It has to be seen to be believed. We booked in for two nights, but as we set up camp with ideas of staying longer the wind came up and changed our minds. Every time we have camped next to a beach (except Cape Arid) there have been wind and gale warnings, and Streaky Bay was no exception.

 

We were going to explore the whole coast line of the Eyre Peninsula, but have now changed our plans as you will see in a moment. 

 

The full day we spent at Streaky a Bay started with a coffee and cake at the local bakery, both delicious. We then did a self drive tour around the area which included visiting a lookout over a permanent sea lion colony. Back at camp the 50 Klms plus winds drove us into the camp kitchen to cook and eat. 

 

This morning we were up early for SA time and got away at 9.30 for our next stop which is the Gawler Ranges. We are going to spend 2 or 3 nights here in the wilderness. We have set up camp in one of the remote campgrounds. We are the only people here so we are guaranteed some peace and quiet. There is no phone signal either so hope to be able to update the blog when we do some exploring tomorrow.

 

 

Well relying on a telephone signal from the ranger station did not work. Today we took a drive through the park on their 4WD tracks. We had the whole park to ourselves, until near the end of the drive we came across another vehicle. The scenery is stunning but with the temperatures hotting up we will be leaving tomorrow morning and heading down to Port Lincoln.

Day 114 to to 121 23 to 30 November.

Albany, Stirling Ranges, Bremer Bay and Esperance

 

 

We headed off early to Albany arriving there around midday. We picked a caravan park to stay in but could not book in till around 2pm so did some minor sight seeing till then. We went out to a place called the gap and explored the national park. At the gap they have built a platform over one of the rocky inlets. You can walk out on it and watch the waves crash onto the rocks 50 metres below you. The rocks here are unusual and are related to the rock formations from Antartica. This part broke away millions of years ago, along with the rest of Australia. We explored all the other tourist sights in the park and then made our way to the caravan park. We checked into the park. It was one of the best caravan parks we have stayed in to date. Loverly green lawns to camp on, new and spotless facilities and not far from the beach and unlimited high speed wi fi. We stocked up our supplies and made plans for the next day. Next morning we had Clive into Nissan early for its 30,000 service. Yes we have done just over 10,000 Klms since leaving Broome two months ago.

 

To fill in time till 1pm when the car would be ready, we did a walk around town and took in all the sights. We visited a camping shop to check out some gear and I was able to buy some new walking boots as I had worn my existing ones out. We picked up Clive at 1pm and then drove up to the memorial park that houses the Anzac Memorial Museum. Before going to the museum we walked to the top lookout where there is a monument to the Desert Light Horse that left Albany for the 1st wWW in December 1914. (See photo above). The monument is the remains of the original monument built at Port Said to honour the regiment and its actions in WWI but was partially destroyed during the Suez Crisis in the late 1950’s. what was left of it was bought back to Australia and re erected at its present home and officially unveiled in 1964. The granite blocks came from Port Said but the bronze statue had to be recast using a carving of the original made by one of the soldiers. There is a large courtyard around the statue. This is the place of the first organised Anzac dawn service as it overlooks the harbour where the first two Anzac convoys gathered and set off for the Middle East in 1914.  Standing there I could imagine just how moving attending a dawn service here would be. Something we may put on our bucket list. 

 

After walking around the lookout we headed down to the Anzac museum. It was just before 4pm and it closed to new entrants at 4 and then close the museum at 5.30. When we saw what was involved we decided to come back next morning early. This we did and it was a good decision as we spent over two hours there. A visit to this place should be on the list of anyone that visits WA. 

When you first enter you are given the card of a soldier from Gallipoli that has a code on it. As you go around the museum you are able to follow that soldiers journey through the war. My soldier, Bugler Otto Siefken enlisted and was one of the first convoy to leave Albany. His father was German who was excluded from serving for Australia because of his birth, but Otto having been born here could serve. He fought in Gallipoli, landing with the first wave and survived only to be sent to the trenches in France. There he was captured in early 1917, and died in a POW camp four months before peace was declared in November 1917. How sad. Lest we forget.

 

The museum has the full story of Anzacs serving in the whole of WWI.  It is in Albany because that is where the first 2 convoys left from. The first included 30,000 Australian and New Zealand service men and members of the nursing corp. horses and supplies. it was escorted by several of the small Australian navy destroyers. The second convoy included 12,000 Anzac troops and it was un escorted. Part of the museum looks over the harbour and you can imagine just what it was like in 1914.

 

There is so much information in this museum, so brilliantly presented that you really need a full day, with breaks in between wandering the grounds to take it all in. But it was raining, so we called it a day after about 2 and a half hours but resolved we would visit it again when next in WA. 

 

We left at about 11.30 and headed off to the Stirling Ranges which are about 120 kilometres north of Albany. We arrived and booked into the national park for two nights. In the afternoon we took a drive to Bluff Knoll the highest point in the park at 1054 metres above sea level, almost the same height as Blackheath. It snows here occasionally, just like at Blackheath. There is a car park about 400 metres from the summit and a walking trail to the top. When we got to the car park a storm closed in and fog and cloud billowed down the rocky crags towards us.  We decided to call it quits, took a few photos and headed back to camp. The camp ground was small but had flushing toilets, and at $14 a night for the two of us was good value. The first night there 8 other couples came in and used all the facilities, which includes free gas bbq’s but only one other group paid. Why  do people think that they can bludge on others. It gets my goat because if such non payment continues I can see future governments just banning camping in National Parks, then we all are the losers. A lot of free camping sites have been closed already because of the mess a few leave behind. Next day we did a self drive tour through the park exploring the huge range of flora on display. There is a huge variety of wild flowers scattered through the bush. We also came across a diamond python in the wild, and Louise gots some good photos, (from the safety of the car). Back at camp for lunch we had a quiet afternoon vegging out.

 

Next morning we headed off to  Bremer Bay for our next stop. We arrived there before lunch and and booked into another caravan park with lovely grass for two nights. We explored the surrounding area next day. The beaches along the southern coast of WA are simply stunning. White white sand and the water colours are unreal from a teal blue to turquoise. If you see a photo you would think the photographer had mucked up the colours as to us from the east it looks so unreal.  The only downside here is that the surf is dangerous. The waves that come in from the great southern ocean are unpredictable and seem to dump when they get in shore. We noticed many plaques on the rocks remembering the people who had drowned. Care is needed here when near the ocean.

 

Next morning it was off to Esperance some 400 Klms to the east. Again we booked into a caravan park. We stopped here mainly to stock up. We did a little exploring but nothing that we would really write home about. Next morning after going to the post office to pick up mail that has not arrived we headed off to Cape Arid National Park. I am writing this there but you will have to wait to next blog to read about the delights here.

 

The mail we tried to pick up was our postal voting papers for the by election in Barnaby’s seat. Yes he is our local member. We applied for the voting papers a week ago and were told we would have them by the 28th. Well today is the 30th and no mail. we were told at the post office that letters now take 7 to 10 working days to get to you. Gee that's progress. So I suppose now we will have to wAit till they try and fine us to point out we tried to vote but the system stopped us.

 

So tiLl next time. 

 

 

Day 108 to 113

17 to 22 November

Manjimup, Walpole and Denmark The great southern forests.

 

We left Canebrake Pool early and started the short trip to Manjimup. Part of the journey was along roads we had already traversed, but the beauty of the country side just made you appreciate this part of the world more. Just before Manjimup we came to a little river that had a walking trail and some historic relics to see. We stopped for a cup of tea and had a look around and started to get the feel for these forests of Jarrah and Karri trees. These both are majestic trees in their own right and only grow in certain soil types in south west WA. we were quite taken back by the whole experience so we're happy to motor on further into these majestic forests. We arrived at Manjimup just before lunch so decided to press on to our camping ground in the National Park so we would be sure of a spot as they appeared to be scarce. We had chosen to camp at a place called Drafty’s in the Warren National Park. It was indeed a beautiful area with large camp sites within the forest and just enough sunlight to make the solar panels work. We were met by a volunteer host who gave us a choice of two sites to choose from. 

 

We set up camp, had lunch and explored the surrounding area. The camp ground was just near the river and to get to it you need to drive along a very narrow windy and hilly logging trail amongst towering Karri Trees that are dead straight and rise up 40 metres and more. Their yellow orange bark shining in the forest. It is indeed a sight to behold. Some of these trees are over 300 years old. 

 

Next morning we were up early as we had decided to go back to Manjimup for a farmers market before doing a forestry self guided drive through the Shannon National Park. The farmers market was great with plenty of fresh vegetables and fruit, especially pink lady apples which were first developed here. We also had a tasting of a new apple that they have developed which will be available in shops in the easter states next season. They are called Bravo and are delicious. 

 

The Shannon NP is famous as the river that runs through it has its source and finish within the park itself. So it is a total Eco system contained within the one park which they claim is rare.  The area has a mixture of two main soil types that grow Jarrah and Karri, but not together. So as you drive through you encounter full forest of Jarrah and then suddenly as though there is a fence line a full forest on Karri. It is magnificent. The Karri forests are my favourite because of the straightness of the trees and their height.  A full grown Jarrah or Karri has enough timber to build 2.5 average sized timber houses just in one tree. You start to feel insignificant when you stand under one and look up. The photo at the top of this blog will give you some idea of what I am talking about. And that tree the King Karri was just over 70 metres high and about 5 or 6 metres in circumference at the base. The King Jarrah by comparison was 2.5 metres in circumference and 50 metres tall but over 500 years old. It had an arrow blazed on it in the 1920’s to claim it for the government and to stop it being logged. It was a grand tree even in the 1920’s.  

 

The exploration took all day and we returned to camp for an early night. During the day we encountered patches a very heavy rain, the first experience of heavy falls since we left Cobar some three months ago. It also rained during the night and we woke up to a very overcast day. We headed off again and did another self drive forest explorer trail. This one was mainly through Karri forests and also included a sight where protesters in the mid nineties stopped the logging of the forest in the area which led to the national park that is there today. The area includes old growth forest as well as replanted forests. Some replantings were done in the 1920’s 30’s and the Karri trees would only be about 450mm in diameter. It brings to the forefront just how slow growing these trees are. We also visited Snottygobble loop. We wanted to find out if there was any clue why it was named that. There wasn't so you will just have to use your imagination.

 

Next morning we packed up for the next leg and had picked on a camp ground recommended by Drafty’s hosts, being  Parry’s Beach just out of Denmark.  In Denmark we found the best meat pies. They had heaps of awards, and having eaten one I know why. We drove through more Karri and Jarrah forests and then suddenly as we got nearer to the coast the type of bush and trees changed. We were now in Tingle tree country. We didn't explore the tingle forests as we were still trying to digest the majesty of the forests we had just been through. Also we heard that the camping ground at Parry’s was very popular so didn't want to miss a spot. We got there about lunch time and were lucky as we were able to get a very sunny spot. This camping ground reminds us of the old style camping grounds on the south coast of NSW that existed in the 50 and 60’s.  The beach vegetation has been cleared just enough to fit a small van or tent. We have flushing toilets and hot showers and we are right on the beach. What else do you need.  Its so good we have extended our stay to 3 nights. Yesterday we explored the area into Denmark and today we explored the local beach. The scenery is stunning, with large granite outcrops set out from the beeches. The turbulent southern ocean hits them full on giving great displays. We took heaps of photos in the hope of getting one spectacular one. Tomorrow we are off to Albany as the car needs servicing having done 10,000 Klms since we left Broome. 

 

 

We are now embarking on the last leg of our great journey and at the moment it looks like we will make home just after Christmas. Till next time.

 

 

6 To 17 November

 

Wave Rock, back to Perth, Wellington NP, Margaret River Area.

 

 

We left Dryandra after what was a fabulous 3 days and headed off to Wave Rock. We stopped along the way at Narrogin and stocked up before heading off towards Hyden. Some research on WickiCamps led to the decision to camp not at Wave Rock but at a small place some 18 Klms away at a place called Karlgarin. There is a Caravan Park there, Tessys, which had very good write ups so we booked in for  3 nights. Booking in the owner asked what we were interested in. When we told him he pulled out a map and ran us through all what the area offered and 

not marked on the maps. So next day we were up early and headed off to Wave Rock. Well the photos you see on brochures make it look bigger than what it really is, and we both found it a bit under whelming. We did a walk to the top of the granite outcrop which made the trip more worthwhile as the views over the surrounding farming land were spectacular.. so we're the wild flowers growing in little nooks and crannies. We also came across some small lizards about 20 cms long with bobbing heads to attract other hiding in the rocks.  Which was fascinating. After wave Rock we drove out to Bates Cave where there were aboriginal stencils dating over many centuries. Back to camp we had an early night after all the walking and climbing. Next day we drove a recommend loop to see the other sights of the area. One was Buckley's Breakaways which are similar but smaller the the Breakaways we had seen in South Australia at Coober Pedy. What was good about these was that you could walk through them.

 

Next morning we were up early, packed up and headed off to Perth via York. We wanted to visit a 4x4 show that was being held on the weekend to try and sort out our solar power issues. York is a little historic town about 90 Klms east of Perth and was one of the first European settlements in the state. We decided also to go back to Northam so stayed there for the night before heading to South to Perth on Saturday morning. 

 

After checking into the caravan park we headed off to the shopping centre. I had twisted my glasses accidentally so needed to visit OPSM to have them straightened out. Sunday morning we were up early and headed off to the 4WD show. After speaking to the manufacturer of our trailer we bought a Korr 150 watt solar blanket. We got it a a special show price that was about $300 off. Since its purchase we have had no issues in charging up our batteries, so money well spent as it means we don't have to pay for powered camping sites every couple of days. 

 

Sunday was a very hot day with the mercury climbing to 38 degrees, so once we had seen and done what we needed to do we headed back to camp for a restful afternoon and the planning of the next phase of the trip.

 

Up early again next morning we headed off to Bunbury where we restocked before heading to Wellington National Park. We found a great camping spot near the lake and set up camp for 2 nights. The next day we drove around looking at all the sites, including the dam, giant Jarrah tree, as well as visiting Collie, a coal mining town. 

 

We left Wellington next morning and headed off to Margaret River. The drive through the country side was fascinating. Rolling hills of pasture give way to forests of Jarrah, kauri and other trees. Every turn brings a new and picturesque vista, and photos you take don't do it justice. Driving through one forest we came to a roundabout in the middle of no where and there on the side of the road were hundreds of gnomes. We stopped to have a look and discovered that instead of hundreds there were thousands.  The story behind it is more fascinating. It appears about 20 years ago council decided to put in a roundabout at the intersection where there was a bus stop. A mother was worried that the school children would wait for the bus at the wrong place and put a gnome in the base of a tree that had been cut down for the roundabout construction so the kids would know where to wait for the bus. Other gnomes started to appear and as the collection got larger locals were pressed into service to look after the area. It became such a tourist attraction that council eventually took over its maintenance and the site continues to grow as people add gnomes in memory of loved ones who have died. 

We did some research of caravan parks in the Margaret River region and non of them had good reports and most were very pricy… $35 to $50 a night. So we opted to stay just out of the area in a Conservation Reserve at Canebrake Pool. What a great decision. It was quiet and magical with only 9 camping spots and only $12 pn… pensioner rates. So we booked in for 3 nights. We were going to stay 6 but saw everything we wanted to see in 2 days. The first day we did the northern region, Including dropping in to Vasse Felix winery. It was the first in the Margaret River region.  However it was not the experience we were looking for. The wineries here are more up market and commercial then the Hunter Valley, and the whole Margaret River is so Southern Highlands, but more so. So we stuck to the natural sights of which there are many.  On the Second day we did the southern region. There are caves and light houses to explore, if you have the money, but we preferred to take in all the natural sights, beaches, forests and old towns. We visited Augusta which was a real treat especially Augusta Golf Course. A nine hole par 3 course with sand greens and a big sign at the entrance about the Masters and another saying “No shooting or hunting”. We had morning tea at a place called Flinders Bay. It is the sight of the largest whale rescue in the world which happened in the late 1980’s. over 90 false killer whales had beached and over 90 were saved by a huge human effort. Plaques along the foreshore record the events. We drove along Caves Road back to camp and were Astounded by the groves of Kauri forests along the way. These truely are majestic trees and we will see more of them in the days to come as we journey towards Albany. 

On our last night at Canebrake, we decided to roast a chook as we could have fires and national parks had supplied fire wood. It was our first attempt to roast using the camp oven. While it was a bit of hit and miss ( the thermometer we bought for the event wouldn't work) we winged it and I must say the end result was fantastic. A $7.00 a chook will do us for one dinner and two or three lunches… now that is what I call value. (Anyone would think I'm a pensioner)

 

Today we packed up and headed out to the next section of our trip… the great southern forests.

 

 Hopefully the next blog will be sooner than two weeks. But we are having so much fun not working to any timetable. I am writing this at our next camp just South of Pemberton and will post it in the morning when we go into Manjimup where there will be a farmers market.

Day 91 to 96 

31 October to 5 November Lane Poole Reserve and Dryandra Woodland including Barna Mia Nocturnal Animal Sanctuary. 

 

Well the stay at Lane Poole Reserve was indeed very relaxing. We only had one issue, in that the campsite, which we had to book sight unseen on the internet, was totally shaded, the only one like that within the camp ground. However, with a little bit of ingenuity we got through, as far as power was concerned. The facilities in this park are new and nothing short of fantastic. We even had room to set up our privacy tent, so could have showers from our solar hot water shower kit. That is a black bag you fill with water and leave it in the sun for a couple of hours. It is really refreshing having a shower in the bush.

 

The first day we ran into a couple of experienced bird watchers who gave Louise a few hints of where to go to see the best range of birds in the park. So next morning we drove to the best spot and walked along the river spotting what we could. 

 

In the afternoon we went back to camp and vegged out. The next day we went into the nearest town, which is Dwellingup. It is a small timber town in the heart of the Jarrah Forest of around 300 people. A visit to the information centre gave us a small glimpse into the towns past. There is a big display also of the towns most horrific event, being totally destroyed by bush fires in 1961. Almost every building was raised, except the pub and primary school, and yet no lives were lost despite hundreds being trapped in the town with no escape. There is a film you can watch and being an old bush fire fighter I just had to see the film. It was very moving as survivors retold their stories.

 

We were also pointed towards a forest information centre, which we also visited. It had the full history of the jarrah industry and how the Lane Poole park came into being. Most of the timber felled in this area was used as road pavers, destined for the UK or South Africa, as well as for domestic railway sleepers. In the early 1900’s the head of the forestry department saw that unless something was done the finite timber resource would vanish. So he put in place a system of reserves, and replanting programs, that was stepped up some years later by another Forestry head, Lane Poole, who the park is named after. Jarrah takes an extremely long time to reach maturity. They had cross sections from two trees, one felled in 1998 and the other in 2005. One tree was dated as stating growing in 1705, the other in 1700.  In fact we saw a re growth forest planted in 1920 to 1930 and the trees were only about 40 cms in circumference. The tree that grew from 1700 was about a metre.

 

One interesting fact about Jarah and why it succeeds in a climate where other trees can't, is that it is able to send down very long tap roots that find the water table way below. And so the crown cover survives the long dry spells of the Mediterranean climate.

 

They also had a walk through a forest area that showed off the different seasons. We were able to photograph some interesting wild flowers.

 

On the last day we visited another area of the park where Louise went bird spotting while I was off photographing some small water falls and rapids.

 

Thursday we were up early, packed up and headed off to Dryandra. As we left the forest we emerged into the open plains of the southern wheatbelt. This is indeed beautiful country and it was a very pleasant 3 hour drive. We did come across a bauxite mine, that had an information bay giving you all the details of the mine and their regeneration work as they progress. 

 

We arrived in Dryandra in the early afternoon and quickly found a sunny camp spot in one of the two camp grounds here. Again all new and excellent facilities. The next morning we took off and did one of the many walks through the forest. The Woodland here is totally different to Lane Poole, more akin in some areas of Victoria's Malley region. Interesting still the same. On the walk we photographed many wild flowers. They are very petite and colourful, in what is a very dry landscape. On the walk we came across an echidna and a local goanna (Bungarra). 

 

On Friday night we took the nocturnal tour which was the main reason why we came here. The tour was post dinner, and we were joined by three other couples. They have two heavily fenced areas in the park where they are re-establishing several threatened species, including the bilbie. Most of the species have  disappeared from the mainland, so breeding stock was sourced from islands off WA were there are no cats and foxes. To relocate them here they had to create two isolation areas, which they have done, which are to be Amalgamated into a 1000 hectare sanctuary. Walking into this place is like walking into a prison. High fences with big over hangs and three strands of electrified wire to keep out  foxes and wild cats. It is working.

 

When we went outside after the briefing, we came across Bilbys, woylies, boodies, quandas and Marla but not any marls. Food in the form of pellets were put out and they all flocked around to eat. No fear, between our legs. Because we're we're seeing them under infa red light, we did not spook them. At the end two brush tail possums joined in on the fun. These are wild animals, any sudden movement or strange noise sends them darting off for cover. It was indeed a great and informative 2 hours, and we totally enjoyed it. We got back to camp at 9pm and being way past our bed time went straight to bed.

 

In this park there are wild numbats which a day animals. The guide told us that they had been sighted on the ochre trail so on Saturday morning we set off to do the five Klms walk in the hope of finding them. The range for a numbats is about 20 square kilometres, so you guessed it we didn't see any, but plenty of beautiful wild flowers and another echidna. We also walked through a mallet Woodland. The mallet tree was highly prized for tannin. Its bark was very rich in tannin which was used for tanning leather and making inks. As synthetics replaced the natural product in the mid sixties, but not before replanting was done to protect this resource. Part of this Woodland is a result of the replantings. The wood being very hard is used mainly today for tool handles and fencing.

 

The wild flowers here are particularly dainty and pretty. The tannin from the trees stops many species from growing, so the flowers are sparse but scattered throughout the understory. Little bits a colour in what would be a drab landscape without them.

 

 

In the afternoon we did the 25klm drive around the park  that have various stations describing the area. It was very interesting, and led to the taking of a lot more photos of wild flowers.

 

Tomorrow we Are off to Wave Rock and will spend 3 Days in thar area.

 

 

Day 76 to Day 90

16 to 30 October. Francois Peron NP, Kalbarri, Geraldton, Pinnicles, Dongara, Lancelin, Toodjay, Perth and Lane Poole Reserve.

 

I have been a bit remiss in not doing a blog for the last 11 days but something always got in the road. Well I will just have to try and remember everything we have done. That is not easy as it becomes a bit of a blur after a while, but we will try anyway. Luckily I maintain a spreadsheet of our itinerary which I update so at least I can get the order of events fairly right. One of the reasons for writing the blog is so that we can remember everything we have done and when and in what order.

 

We left for Francois Peron national park early. The drive up there was fairly uneventful, except when you enter the park, because all roads are unmade and are a surface of soft sand, you have to let your tyres down to at least 20psi. That is about half the normal pressure of the tyres. National parks in WA have excellent infrastructure and at their entry there is a point where you can let down your tyres as well as a compressor so you can pump them up again when you leave. After deflating we proceeded to the nearest camp ground that is called Big Lagoon. The campground fronts one of the lagoons in the park, and if there was no wind it would be a truely magnificent place. Unfortunately we are here in the winding season, and on the second day it blew a gale. Rather than just sit around to be rocked by the wind we were up early next morning and did a drive to the top of the park, visiting all the sights on the way. It is serious sand driving, and the experience we got driving the Simpson Desert helped us to navigated deep soft sand without getting stuck. We got to the top where there are several vantage points where on a clear day you can watch the manta rays, sharks, dugongs etc in the sea below. We had met travellers that had been up there two days previously and had sat and watched the spectacle for hours. But you guessed it when we were there the winds made it almost impossible to see anything. We did see a couple of murky outlines that looked like sharks, but that is all. Another place to return to when the weather is better.

 

We left the park to head further south. We didn't go to monkey Mia, as it was an extra $15 each over and above the fee we had already paid for the park pass, and with the weather the way it was we didn't think it would be money well spent. Maybe next time. 

 

We then headed south towards Kalbarri. However the trip was not without incident. I can't count how many times we were passed by others over double lines or on the crest of hills, with a couple of close shaves to boot. Some people seem to think that no one will be coming the other wary, let alone doing the speed they are doing. 

 

We arrived at Kalbarri early afternoon and as we drove in we decided to visit two of the lookouts at the eastern end of the park. On proceeding to the Second lookout we came around the corner to be confronted with a head on crash involving a Avon motor home and a ford that had just happened. We quickly established that both drivers were ok but both vehicles were locked together and immovable on a blind corner. We had one bar on the phone and rang 000. Well I don't know where it was answered but one of the first questions is what stAte are  you in followed by what town. When you answer Kalbarri National Park they can't handle it and keep asking for a town you are then asked for the nearest cross street and when you give the name of the highway that is beyond them as well. But with perseverance we prevailed and help was sent.

 

The accident was very unfortunate. The driver of the motor home being French came around the blind corner on the wrong side of the road and cleaned up an Italian driving the ford. I really felt sorry for the Italian as he had bought the car in Darwin and was on his way to Perth to sell it to fund the rest of his overseas trip. To save money he hadn't insured it and now it was wrecked. He also  had buyers lined up for it, so not a good outcome for him.

 

After organising help we headed off and booked in for three nights at another farm stay. This one was very basic, and not as good as others we had been in, but did the job and was better than staying in town.

 

Kalbarri National Park is split into two parts, one coastal and one inland, so the first morning we were there we went and explored the coastal area. It is truely beautiful, but we couldn't really captured the magic with our cameras because it was overcast and the wind had thrown up a salt spray mist. The coastline is rugged and spectacular. We visited all the lookouts. 

Next morning it was to be the inland part of the park to visit. It was very overcast and threatening rain, but we headed off anyway. When we got to the park, the clouds had dissipated and the sun was out in its full glory. 

 

 

The 20 Klms drive to the first lookout and walk is through low Heath country. It has a beauty of its own that is quite different to any other we have seen. There were quite a few wild flowers out in bloom, including beautiful large yellow bottle brushes. We got to the first walk, which included Nature’s Window. This park is nothing short of spectacular. Better than anything we had seen to date. Because of the heat and crowds we didn't do the full Gorge walk, but did do the cliff top walk and took heaps of photos.

 

The next lookout is Z Bend and that is the most spectacular of all. It is hard to capture its grandness on camera but I have tried but won't get a chance to fully process the shots until I get home. The photo above was taken on the iPhone and gives you some idea of the spectacle.

 

We went back to our camp well exercised and ready for a early night. They are building a sky walk at Kalbarri which should be finished later in the year, so another reason to come back.

 

One thing we have noticed in WA is the standard of facilities at National Parks. They are excellent, well thought out and executed. Kalbarri is no exception as it has just been upgraded, but standing at the men's urinal having a pee, the view through the open window down the valley was amazing.

 

Next morning we were back on the road and headed off to Geraldton. When we arrived we were overwhelmed. It has 35,000 residents, after two months in outback places we found it too crowded so ducked into Woolies to restock and then back on the road heading south. 

 

South of Geraldton there are two must sees. First are the leaning gum trees, created by all the wind, and the Second are the Pinnacles. Both are worth seeing and I have uploaded some iPhone photos into the gallery.we did a walk at the pinnacles, (most people drove) which was really worthwhile as you got a better appreciation of the spectacle of these numerous monoliths.

 

We left the Pinnacles and headed south stopping at a small town called Dongarra. The only reason for choosing it was the name. We booked into the caravan park for two nights. This was the best caravan park we have stayed in too date. Trees or partitions between each space and excellent facilities. We also got the washing up to date, and I was able to wash the vehicles and remove one month of accumulated red dirt.   Bliss.

 

The wind was still blowing so after 2 days we decided to move on towards Perth. Were to stay next. We found a caravan park at a place called Lancelin and got a space right next to the beach as when we arrived there was no wind. But that quickly changed as a sudden gale warning was issued for the area for that night and next day. So we moved on of course.. 

 

We didn't want to stay in a caravan park in Perth, but had two nights to kill before we met up with friends in North Perth, where we were going to stay Saturday night. A quick look at the map provided a couple of options, and the one we chose was a small historic town of the name Toodyay (pronounced Twojay of course). It's about 80 Klms from Perth in the Avon Valley area. It was indeed a great choice. We stayed two nights in a loverly caravan park set on the river bank. It was about a kilometre walk along the river into town, which we did the first morning we were there, and explored the town. It was founded in 1826 and still has many original buildings. There is also a miniature railway, built by people on work for the dole scheme in 1998. The train runs on the 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month and I expect it is a great tourist attraction.

 

One feature of the town is its roses, and they are truely to be marvelled at and photographed, which we did. A stop at the local bakery was also a treat as well. We bought two cups of tee, two hug cakes and a huge baguette for the sum total of $14. And it was good bread as well. Toodjay reminded us of Berry 30 years ago.

 

Next day we did a tour of the country side and visited Meckering, the name of which rang a bell in the back of my mind. When we got there I remembered, it was the centre of the strongest earthquake ever measured in Australia, 6.7 on the Richter scale in the 1960’s. It destroyed or Bradley damaged every building in the town. A fault line ran across the countryside where the ground had been thrown up over a metre and a half. They have an earthquake park where there are items such as bent railway lines showing the force of the event.

 

Saturday we packed up and headed to Perth to catch up with an old work colleague who moved to Perth some four years ago. It was great catching up with Dixie and reminiscing our time working together.

 

Sunday morning we jumped into the Patrol (after having a break from packing up) and headed south. We are now camped in the Lane Poole Reserve, which from what I can work out is akin to a state forest in NSW. It is managed by National Parks and has excellent camping facilities. The best part there is not a breath of wind… non at all so we are here for four days. There is plenty to do, not least bird watching and scenic walks along the river that runs through the park. At the end of this stay we are heading off to the Dryandra Woodlands where we are booked into a nocturnal tour where hopefully we will see elusive Bilbies, boodies, woylies etc. so till then.

 

PS. Because of internet issues I have not been able to upload any images in the gallery, but will do so when able. 

12 to 17 October

 

As mentioned in our last post we travelled up to Quobba next morning to see the blow holes and the HMAS Sydney Memorial Cain. It was a 50 Klms easy drive. We had planned to camp at Quobba one night, but we were so comfortable at Carnarvon decide to stay there for the extra night and do a day trip to Quobba. What a great decision. When the wind is not blowing it would be a nice place but the day we were there the wind was strong enough to blow your dog off its chain…. Assuming you had a dog. Being low tide we thought we would miss the blow holes but the opposite is true. They are at their best at low tide. There a couple of shots in the gallery. More interesting from a photographic point of view was the raging ocean smashing onto the rocks. Spectacular.  On the way back we suddenly noticed a huge display of wild flowers beside the road. They were not open on the way out but the sun had done its job and they were displaying their beauty. There is a photo in the gallery.

 

After about a hour  of shooting the blow holes we headed up to the memorial which was 12 Klms away on a corrugated road. The Cain was built in 1980 by the members of the Naval Association before the remains of the boat was found, which was in 2005. The spot for the Cain was chosen as it was about half way between where 2 boats from the German boat beached. All were lost on the Sydney, and the Germans lost about 86 of their crew. After the the Sydney was found an inquest was held and the findings are interesting reading. It can be read on a navy website if you are interested in the history.

 

Back in Carnarvon we bought some vegetables from a road side stall of one of the big irrigation producers in the area. His tomatoes are to die for, so full of  flavour. As well we solved another problem, that of our refrigeration capacity. We just didn't have enough, and we were having to restock every 3 or 4 days, which limited a bit on what we could do. So a visit to the local camping store saw us purchasing an Engel 40 litre fridge freezer to use as a full time freezer. The price was the same as what I would pay in Sydney so we didn't have second thoughts. The first thing to go in it was a box of magnums from Woolies. Ice cream on the road yum.

 

The other fridge freezer we have is a 55 litre evakool, and we will use that solely as a fridge. We now have plenty of space for keeping food cool or frozen, which frees up what we can do. As well we have a back up system if something goes wrong.

 

Stocked  up we headed off on Saturday morning to Kennedy National Park, some 170 Klms inland from Carnarvon. The national park sits in the middle of the driest plains you could imagine. Everything is either dead or wilting. What's makes the park interesting is that it encompasses a huge Messa. The top is what the level of the surrounding country side was before it was all eroded away after being pushed up from the bottom of the ocean many many millions of years ago. It is hot and very dry. No water or signs of water at all. It is an unforgiving landscape and very hot. 

 

On the way out we crossed the Glascoyne River. It is a dry river at this time of the year, full of sand and also the longest river in WA. When dry the water runs under the sand. In the wet season the flows are huge and there are photos of the river in flood some 25 metres deep and about 500 metres wide. In fact the town of Glascoyne Junction was wiped out in the floods of 2002 and has been rebuilt. All nice new and shiny now. Further up the dirt road just before the National Park we came across a cobbled road. It was built in the 20’s  and 30’s during the depression when motorised transport was starting to be used to move wool and other supplies about. Prior to that camel and bullock wagons were the main means of moving goods about. In fact the road we were on was used by Charles Kingsford Smith for his mail run. The money he earns here provided the capital to fund his later flying adventures. Some of the stories and photos on the information panels show just what a hash and isolated life these pioneers had.

 

We rested after we arrived and walked a couple of the gorges next morning when it was comparatively cooler. They are stunning, but very revealing of this fractured, dry and fragile landscape. Because there is no water there is very little wild life here, except for small marsupials who hide amounts the rocks during the day and come out at night. We noticed that a couple of the wild shrubs have adapted their leaves to capture the night dew and so survive without rain. 

 

I have posted photos in the wa  low res images gallery which will give you some idea of what the country side is like, and the blow holes etc.

 

Tomorrow we were going to love off to Mt Augustus, but given the heat and the 450 Klms round journey we have decided to leave that till next time. So will head off across the back roads to Hamelin, the Shark Bay (Monkey Mia) and the Francois Peron National Park.

 

We have had this camp ground all to ourselves today, but just now some backpackers have pulled up and set up camp almost next to us. This camp ground is so large they could pick anywhere they liked and would never be able to see us or let alone hear us. But no right next to us in full sight and we can hear everything they say. They must like living on top of themselves in Europe or they are scared of the dark. With no moon and no lights it is pitch black at night out here. Oh well. 

 

We were up very early next morning as the winds blew all night keeping us awake. By early morning they had stopped, but we had breakfast and packed up, visiting the Honeycomb Gorge before we left. As we headed back to Glascoyne Junction it started to sprinkle. We took a back road which had just been graded and as we progressed the clouds got thicker and the sprinkles turned to intermittent light rain. Roads are closed here very quickly when it starts to rain and fines for driving on them when closed are pretty steep. Luckily the hadn't shut the gate (yes there are gates on the back roads here)  Anyway the road we took was in good condition as I said and we made good time on our way to Shark Bay. 

 

A check on Wikki Camps led us to choose a farm stay for one night at Hamelin Outback Station Stay. It is an ex sheep Station purchased by Bush Heritage Australia in 2015. It is a 202,000 hectare property. We are very glad we did, as the amenities are excellent, so much so we stayed an extra night so we could explore the surrounding area.

 

Today we went to Hamelin just down the road and viewed the oldest living organism on the planet, the stromatolites. These organisms date back 2 billion years and are the mechanism that produced oxygen on our planet. The stromatolites here is the largest remaining collection in the world, making them very special and part of the reason it is a world heritage area. The landscape and seascape is truely amazing. The colour of the water has to be seen to be believed and no photos can really do it justice. Although while in Denham today we saw a photo exhibition of aerial photos taken by some very famous Australian photographers that go close.

 

On the way to Denham we stopped in at Shell Beach. This beach is made up of cockle shells that survive in the very salty Hamelin Bay. It is an amazing place to walk on millions if not billions of shells that have accumulated over 1000’s of years. Makes you feel very humble that we are only small specs in the time line of earths history. 

 

Our reconnoiter of the surrounds has led to us deciding to move on tomorrow to Francois Peron national park, and do some bush camping at the top end of the peninsula. To get there we will need to do some pretty serious 4 wheel driving on sand tracks, so should be fun. We will be up there for two to three days before we head off to Kalbarri.

 

 

Till next time

Day 64 to 71

Exmouth, Cape Range National Park, Carnarvon. 5 To 12 October

 

Well our stay at the free camp just outside Old Onslow was indeed relaxing. The views over the river, which is lined with white River gums wAs indeed picturesque, and Louise had great fun photographing the many birds and then identifying them. A rail ( or in twitcher speak a buff banded rail) befriended us and hung around the camp the whole time we were there, not scared or intimidated by us at all. the only thing wrong with the camp was the increasing wind squalls that arose from about midday and went right through till sun up next morning. The country here has not seen rain of any sort for at least 4 months and the wind threw up the fine red dust everywhere. 

 

Our drive to Exmouth was fairly uneventful. We had decided that we would not stay in Exmouth, but rather at a Conservation Park called Giralia  some 120 Klms from town. The property where we stayed at used to be a working sheep farm but was bought by the WA government and turned into a conservation park. We stayed two nights and if you are on Facebook you would have seen photos of one of the visitors to our camp. We left Giralia and headed into Exmouth to restock. Being a town of only 2000 odd residents we didn't expect much but a visit to the bakery changed our mind. It was good as or even better than any good bakery in the big smoke. The town also has two IGA supermarkets in competition with each other about 50 metres apart… strange.

 

The main reason for Exmouth was the US Communication set up…North West Cape that is the main communication base to all US nuclear submarines around the world. A very strategic site…. I wonder if it is in North Korean sights.  The communication towers are just outside town, and one of them is the tallest structure in Australia according to all the visitor info, but a think a building in Melbourne may now hold that honour. Anyway the tower is taller than the Empire State Building.

 

After stocking up we headed out to Cape Range National Park where we stayed for three nights at a place called  Yardies Creek.  In WA all the camp sites in national parks are very well laid out and this one was no exception. Next to the beach, there were only nine sites there plus the camp host. We set up camp and explored the beach and nearby inlet. Next day we walked up the Yardies River Gorge. The trail takes you up on top of the gorge as the area is all limestone and very fragile. There are several endangered species in the park, so where you can and can't go is strictly controlled. One endangered species in a black footed rock wallaby which evidently is a very timid animal and easily disturbed.  We saw one hopping away as we climbed the Gorge, plus plenty of bird life.  We also got some good photos as well.  We really like this place so next morning decided to explore further. There are heaps of small camp sites along the numerous beaches that make up the park which covers about 50 % of the Ningaloo Reef. The reef has world heritage listing and has very heavy protection. With the coastline along it being either National Park, or coastal protection zone there is no major developments impinging on the reef so it is almost in its natural state. As well being very close to shore it is easily accessible to view and we will be coming back. We explored all the camping areas and beaches to pick where we will stay next time. That is more likely to be earlier in the year, around May so we miss the windy season. And then we can go on and visit the other areas we have missed on this trip or go back to places we want to visit again. One of the great things about WA is there is a lot of space so it does not appear too crowded. One of the biggest attractions in the national park is the turquoise water over the reef which runs along the shore line, with whale sharks, and a multitude of marine life. Whales run up the coast near the reef, but it is now past the season so sightings now  are few and far between.

 

On the way back to our camp we came across an Australasian Bustard. These birds are rare, and because of their acute shyness are very rarely seen. So how lucky were we. Louise got a couple of photos as it calmly walked off into the bush.

 

We would have stayed here longer but the winds come up in the afternoon and like Old Onslow stay till first light next morning. On our last afternoon the winds were indeed strong and buffeting and it became very difficult to cook dinner as the gas was continually being blown out. It got worse overnight withe winds of over 50 Klms an hour more. It broke one of our tent ropes overnight holding up the vehicle awning. We were up early next morning after having very little sleep and in the heavy wind packed up and headed into town to have breakfast at the Bakery. 

 

After breakfast we headed off to Carnarvon. This drive was also uneventful, driving in country similar to the Tanamai. As we got closer to Carnarvon, it was just miles and miles of spinifex, no trees and very little else. On the way we stopped into Coral Bay. At last we found a tourist spot a la Queensland. Up market resorts and caravan parks lined the shore. A beautiful little cove but too many people and too much development for our liking. But I can see why families like it as the bay has so much to offer kids. Snorkelling, coral viewing, kayaking etc.

 

Just below Coral Bay we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn  some two months after going across it on the way to the Kimberley's. Our 2 months of being in the tropics has finished. Now fully acclimatised to the heat and no rain we are going to have get used to cold and rain again.

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We moved on the Carnarvon which is the first non mining town we have visited in a while. It was founded in the late 1800’s as a port to ship supplies for the wool farmers. It is also home to a space tracking complex as well as a huge agricultural irrigation area. They have been growing bananas here since the 1930’s and today it is a huge food bowl of bananas, avocados, mangos, tomatoes and other salad vegetables.  

 

 

Tomorrow we are heading off to Quobba where there are blow holes and a memorial to the sailors who lost their lives with the sinking of HMAS Sydney in the Second World War, the wreck was found just off the coast from Quobba. 

28 September to 4 October

 

Millstream National Park, Port Samson, Karratha, Dampier and Old Onslow

 

We are sitting on the banks of the Ashburton River (photo above) enjoying the piece and Quiet and updating the blog. We are here for 3 days free camping, instead of paying $40 a night for a caravan pRk in Onslow. We have plenty of power now that I have sorted out the electrics, plenty of food and water, and also we have our own toilet facilities. This is truely a magical place with the nearest campers to us being over 200 metres away. Totally private. I'll get back to the blog before I get really carried away.

 

As I said in the last blog we stayed in Tom Price a night as the chance for a hot shower was too good to pass up. Next morning we headed off to Millstream National Park which was about 280klms up the dirt road. There are two sections to see in this Park. The first is where the camping ground is and is the site of the original homestead and also a natural aquifer that feeds the local river. The water is also harvested to supply Karratha and surrounds with a reliable year long water supply ( but not the National Park). We visited the local sights and did a walk through the wet lands. There is also a popular swimming spot in the river. It is different scenery than Karijini but worth visiting. 

 

Next morning we were up early and headed off to Karratha to restock.  On the way and still in the National Park, we drove through spectacular scenery as well as visiting another famous water/swimming hole, Python Pool. The drive to Karratha was 150 Klms with some stops along the way at Roebourne and Port Samson. Karratha is a recent town having been developed in the 1960’s to service the iron ore industry. Port Samson and Roebourne date back to the 1800’s as they were developed to service the emerging pearling and pastoral industries. Port Samson appealed to us so we checked into the caravan park for two nights. The reason for two nights was that a tavern was adjacent and we could watch the AFL grand final live. On the first day we went out and explored the ruins at Cossack. Being at the mouth of the river it was the old port developed in the mid 1800’s. Roebourne became the main administrated centre but is some 20 Klms inland. There are some beautiful govt buildings still standing in Cossack. The interesting thing is that there construction was completed when the town was in its dying days because everything had moved to Roebourne. 

 

We had great fun on grand final afternoon. Being 2 hours behind Melbourne the game started at 12.30pm. We decided to back the Tigers as they were the underdogs. The crowd at the pub was evenly split with some diehard Crowe supporters there in all their football gear. They were very vocal for the first 10 minutes of the game but gradually quiet down as the tigers took and kept control. Not so us as each of Richmonds goals was met with even more raucous noise from us. One lady even photographed our response to each Richmond goal. It was a great fun afternoon.

 

Next morning we headed into Karratha to stock up. The reports of the caravan parks in Karratha are not good so we had decided that we would stay in Dampier once we had got our supplies. Karratha is a mining town, as I previously reported, set up to service the iron ore industry as well as salt production.more recently the gas and oil discoveries on the north west shelf has greatly boosted the population and is now over 20,000 people, by far the largest town we have visited since leaving Alice Springs. It even has multiple sets of traffic lights, something we haven't negotiated since Alice as well. It is also a growing town with a lot of new developments taking place. 

 

After stocking up we headed to Dampier another mining town set up in the 60’s. it is named after the English explorer, who discovered the desert pea. For some reason it was not named after him but after Sturt.  

 

Dampier is the port for Karratha with a loading facility for iron ore and salt. As well it is where Woodside process all the off shore gas and load it for export and the WA market.  The other thing not mentioned is that it is not far from the Montebello islands where the British tested their atom bombs in the 1950’s. also Barrow Island is nearby as well. However, outside that Dampier is a dying town with what it looks like most residents moving to Karratha. We stayed in the caravan park there with a spot that had un interrupted views across the harbour to the loading facilities. 

 

The other reason for visiting Dampier is that it is the home to the largest number of aboriginal peckings to be found in Australia, most dating between 10,000 and 20,000 years old, and some being carbon dated at over 40,000 years old. 

 

Dampier’s other claim to fame is that  it is the home of Red Dog. I have not seen the film but the locals tell me that the film story is not the true story, which is available to read in the local library. 

 

We were up next morning and visited Deep Gorge in the Murujuga National Park. You walk through a pile of jumbled rocks and there scattered amongst them are the peckings. Truely remarkable.

 

After we walked through the Gorge we headed off to the gas processing facility where they have a visitor centre. The complex is massive, processing gas for both the domestic and international market. They have a loading facility that loads the boats with gas for Japan and others plus a pipeline that delivers gas to Perth and south WA.

 

In the afternoon we visited the library and I read the real story of Red Dog. I'll now have to see the film to compare. While in the library we came across another interesting story about another interesting local. His name was Sam and he came to Australia after the Second World War. He was Yugoslav by birth and fled to USA when the Nazis invaded his country. There is a small island in Dampier Harbour and he squattered on it and built a castle in the Yugoslav tradition. He became a celebrity as he carted all the material he needed, including water to the island by boat. He even carted across sand to make a beach so others could visit. Owing to a fire that destroyed part of the castle because he did not have water, Hammesley Iron built a pipeline to the island and than granted him a 99 year lease over the land. He died in 2005. The town got together and organised his funeral and council passed a special resolution to allow him to be buried on the island. Several years later a cyclone destroyed a lot of the castle he built, but again the local community came together and restored his works. It is all there still today and open to anyone who wants to boat out there to see it. It is now protected by council resolution. The local school documented the story as Sam used to invite the children across to the island to visit each year. This to me is a great Australian story.

 

 Next day we headed off the Onslow, but discovered the free camp spot at Old Onslow where we are now. Onslow is a small town that is close to another salt mining operation run by Mitsui. As well there are two huge gas processing plants, one of which is run by Chevron who will be paying no royalties on their extraction for at least 20 years. What idiot negotiated that contract where they take our resources and pay us nothing.  We did not take to the town so headed off to old Onslow where we are now and will be for two more days. We are then heading down to Exmouth but on the way will be camping for a couple of nights at a station stay. We are going to stock up at Exmouth and then camp for three nights in Cape Range National park, so our next blog won't be for about 7 days. If you want an idea of  Where we are and the ground we have covered you can follow our tracks at

 https://www.exploroz.com/eotrackme#d=4A6C4AB6-CEF8-43CE-BD86-DD37ED9FC51C

 

 

Also keep in mind that all my blog posts are available at http://christopherwilsonphotos.com/blog/

 

It updates whenever we pass a phone tower so you can see where we are. If there is no phone tower it will give you our last position. To date we have travelled 11,000 Klms since leaving home.

 

25 September to 27 September. Karijini National Park and Tom Price

 

The drive from Newman to Karijini was pretty straight forward, arriving at around lunchtime.  The country side is indeed beautiful with rolling plains of spinefix and trees giving away to mountain outcrops. This part of the Pilbara is the home to about the 20 highest peaks in WA. 

 

The camping area at Karijini is manned by volunteers as it is school holidays and generally the park is full. Arriving early was to our advantage as we were allocated a loverly spot for 3 nights camping. After lunch and setting up, we headed off for one of the walks around the top Dales Gorge, taking in the magnificent sights. I have uploaded some photos onto my photography web site. The views are indeed stunning. As the sun set we found our way back to our camp site for dinner and an early night as we were going to walk Dales Gorge next morning. It is a class 4 walk meaning it has the 2nd hardest rating of bush walks. 

 

As the sun set it became quite cool and the temperature dropped to below 20 degrees, the lowest in early evening we have had since we left Alice Springs. We must have acclimatised to the warmer weather as we rushed to get jeans and jumpers on. And we needed blankets on our bed the first time in 6 weeks. 

 

We were up early next morning, commenting on the coolness and got ready for our walk. Let me say the walk through the Gorge was stunning, and a very memorable experience. It started with going down a steel staircase down about 70 metres or more. Once on the Gorge floor we did a slight detour to the fern pool. The photo heads this blog. It was a magical place with only two other couples there and no boisterous back packers to spoil the atmosphere. It is spring fed with a small waterfall and large pool. It is a sacred spot to the original inhabitants, and spending 30 minutes here soaking it all in you can see why. 

 

We finally tore ourselves away and slowly meandered through the Gorge taking about 200 photos. It was simply stunning. The green and gold against the deep red of the iron rich soil.  In one of the photos you will notice a warning sign about asbestos. It is in the rock that surrounds the Gorge in small quantities. 

 

We went to the other end of the gorge where there is another pool, the circular pool. While beautiful it was full of backpackers, noisy, ignoring all the warnings and generally making the place unpleasant. They have a habit of ignoring all the rules, making it sometimes very unpleasant for the others. 

 

We climbed out of the Gorge using the other exit which is a very steep rocky climb. The leg muscles were hurting when we got to the top.

 

Being worn out after our excursion we had a relaxing afternoon getting energy for the gorges we would walk next day at the other end of the park. 

 

Next morning we headed off to the other end of the park. The first Gorge we stopped at was Kalmina Gorge. We descended into it. It also is spring fed so there is still water in the bottom of the gorge despite being the dry season. This also was a stunning walk with many photos again being taken. After we climbed out of the gorge we headed off to see Joffre Falls. Would love to see these falls when there was a full body of water going down them. It is a long drop and would be spectacular. We then headed off to Weano Gorge. When we got there about lunch time the car park was full. We did a walk to the top of the gorge and looked down to the bottom 100 metres below at a place where three gorges meet. Spectacular. There was a Celtic Cross just near the lookout that was a shrine to remember the life of a SES worker who drowned while saving others in the canyon after a heavy downpour. A telling reminder of the dangers of going into gorges, and also to the bravery of rescue workers risking their lives when others take unnecessary risks and don't follow the warnings.  We looked into Weano Gorge and the rough rocky descent, and the huge number of people in it and decided to give it a miss. Too many people to get any descent photos. We headed over to Hancock Gorge and had a look at its entrance. It is a class 5 walk.. the hardest. With the state of my knees we gave that a miss as well. We will do the Hamersley Gorge when we head off to Chichester Millstream National Park in a couple of days. 

 

On the way back to camp we did a detour to a lookout that gave views of one of Rio Tinto mines. Somehow the WA government redefined the boundaries of Karijini in the 90’s to allow Rio Tinto to mine in the middle of the park. One thing we noticed that in the gorges of Karijini the rocks you walk on is in fact iron ore. If it is loose it rings if you knock it against another rock just like a steel slab. I hope the Rio Tinto precedent is not repeated. This park is a very special place and it's gorges in my opinion surpass those that we saw in the Kimberley's. 

 

 

This morning we were up and headed into Tom Price to restock some supplies before heading off to Millstream. Our intention was to only shop in Tom Price. Having got here the call of a fresh hot shower was too much, after a 4 day break from them, and we checked into the local caravan park at the base of Mount Nameless. The amount of red dust that came off me in the shower had to be seen to be believed. Today will be a relaxing afternoon, and then tomorrow we will be on the road again.